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NOS Installation Notes

Disclaimer: I am not suggesting that you wire your NOS installation in the same exact manner that I have nor do I assert any guarantee, what so ever, the prints will work. I am merely supplying the prints for you to reference a few safety features and concerns.  You are the one responsible for your installation and operation, not me! 

There is several ways of wiring NOS system. I feel the method I have chosen  will:

  • Ensure enough current passes to the solenoids without going through small switch contacts.

  • 12 volt NOS solenoid signal has to pass through two heavy duty relay contacts averting a disaster from a single welded/stuck contact. 

  • Ensures that when the bike key is off, the NOS is off. 

  • Gives a visual indication that the NOS system is on.

  • Handle bar switch is easy to get to without reaching for it.

  • The fuel pump is turned on when needed and not dead heading against a closed solenoid  all the time. 

  • If the fuel pressure falls too low, the NOS turns off.

When purchasing the NOS kit, you should receive a pressure switch, fuel pump, two solenoids, micro switch and some mounting brackets as part of the kit. NOS kits come with a very good set of instructions on how to install the system. If you wire the NOS in the fashion I have, you will need the following:

  • 1 - Illuminated rocker switch

  • 1 - 10 amp 12 volt fuse and in-line fuse holder

  • 1 - Single Pole Single Throw Miniature toggle switch for the handle switch

  • 2 - Single pole single throw 12 volt coil automotive relays

  • 1 - Lot of spade connectors, heat shrink, tape, wire loom, and etc

Description of the circuit and installation:

If you don't have it already here id the wiring diagram in the following formats:  PDF | JPEG

Master Switch - My initial installation only had one switch located in the left hand Turn Signal/High & Low Beam enclosure. I found that I bumped this switch all the time and it armed the NOS system without my knowledge. I fixed this by placing an illuminated master switch on the plastic cowling behind the front fork. The master switch has one pole attached to a switched 12 volt supply. If you have removed the V-Boost controller box, there is a switched 12 volt supply handy in the connector. The master switch has a internal 12 volt lamp. The connection of this switch will vary depending on the type you purchase. Mine had the input pole on the top. The output pole (which also internally supplies +12 to the lamp) was on the bottom. The lamp ground was the center. You will have to run a ground wire to the lamp ground pole for the lamp to work properly. Use an ohm meter to find the input, output, and ground. You will be able to read resistance between the output and lamp ground regardless of switch position. Test from each one of these to find the input. With the switch in the right place, you should read a short from the output to the input and when the switch is toggled it should go open. The master switch arms the handle bar switch. In the picture below, the master switch is next to my miniature toggle fan switch.

Handle Bar Switch - This switch energizes the coil of Relay 1. I chose a miniature toggle switch for this. The switch and wiring has to clear the handle bar on the inside of the housing. The completed switch should be placed so that its wiring will not rub or chafe against the handle bar over time. 

Relay 1 - When the coil is energized, the contact energizes:

  • Fuel pressure switch

  • Relay 2

  • Fuel Pump

Pressure Switch - The fuel pressure switch arms the throttle micro switch if the fuel pressure is correct and the pressure switch is set correctly. (See Below)

Throttle Micro Switch - This micro switch is installed near the throttle linkage on the carbs. You install it so that when the throttle is wide open, it trips the micro switch. When the micro switch is tripped, it energizes Relay 2.

Relay 2 - When the coil is energized, it applies 12 volts to the coils of the fuel and NOS solenoid. Yee Ha!


Setting the fuel pressure switch. You must set the fuel pressure switch so it will close at any pressure above 4 psi and open at any pressure below 4 psi. I used a Mighty Vac pump and ran it in reverse. The front nipple on the Mighty Vac will pull vacuum, the nipple back on the handle will build pressure.

 I attached a hose to the pressure nipple and then placed a Tee in the line. I attached a pressure gauge to it and ran the other line from the tee to the pressure switch. 

Using an ohm meter, I attached alligator clips to the two poles of the pressure switch so I could have both hands free. Measure the resistance across the two poles of the pressure switch. With no pressure, it should read open. There is a small plug in the end of the pressure switch. When you remove it, you will see an Allen head adjustment screw. Turning it IN will RAISE the pressure the switch will go closed and turning it OUT will LOWER the pressure that it will go closed. 

Start pumping the Mighty Vac and watch the Ohm meter reading verses the pressure gauge. When the gauge reads around 4 pounds, the switch should close and indicate a short on the Ohm meter. If it does not, back the Allen head screw out until it does close. Bleed the pressure off and try it again. Do this until the switch trips closed at 4 pounds without adjustment of the Allen screw.

General Operation:

On any given day that I have the NOS tank full, I will start the bike and arm the master switch. I ride around town with the master switch on letting to glow red to tell me (and others) that something is ready. When the time comes for me to use the NOS, I will usually ride out first and when I go into second, flip the handle bar switch. This turns on Relay 1 which starts the fuel pump and arms the fuel pressure switch. If the fuel pressure is ok, the pressure switch arms the micro switch. If I have the bike WFO, the micro switch turns on Relay 2 which starts the solenoids.